Category Archives: pulse induction

metal detecting terms help

metal detector terms

All-Metal Mode A metal detector setting that detects all metal objects, no discrimination
AudioThreshold The background audio level produced when no target is being detected – it is best to adjust the audio threshold to the lowest audible level, and recommended the operator use headphones when treasure hunting
AudioTone The pitch or frequency of the sound made by a detector. The   tone on the GTI 2500, 1500 and GTP 1350 detectors can be adjusted on a treble to bass scale.
Cache Larger deposits of treasure that generally consist of money and valuable objects
Classifier A filtering device, typically found at the head of a sluice, which helps prevent rocks and other large debris from falling into a gold pan.
Coin Shooting Hunting for coins regardless of location or era of coins targeted
Composite Digger Trowel made of durable plastic that helps prevent coin damage during recovery. Ideal for soft terrain
Control Box Contains the detector’s main circuitry, controls, speaker, batteries and microprocessor chip
DD Searchcoil A special configuration of the transmit and receive coils to minimize the effects of ground minerals
DSP (Digital Signal A highly advanced computer chip used in Garrett detectors and other sophisticated Processor) electronic equipment
Discrimination The ability of a metal detector to reject a target, such as a pull tab and foil or accept a target such as a coin or jewelry based on its metallic composition
FastTrack (See Garrett’s exclusive technology that analyzes ground mineralization and adjusts to “cancel” Ground Balance) its effects in a matter of seconds
Frequency The number of times per second the energy transmitted from a detector’s coil changes direction (e.g. 7.0 kHz = 7000 times per second) – higher frequencies are typically used to find targets such as gold nuggets, while lower frequencies are best for general purpose hunting.
Gold Pan A bowl-shaped, shallow container that traps gold flakes
Gravity Trap™ A patented gold pan made by Garrett which has 90 degree riffles to trap small gold
Ground Balance An adjustment made to “cancel” or ignore ground mineralization; may be done manually (See GroundTracking) or automatically
Ground Tracking The ability of a metal detector to continuously measure the ground’s mineralization and automatically adjust the detector’s ground balance setting for optimum performance
GTA (Graphic Target Analyzer) Exclusive Garrett technology that visually identifies a target’s conductivity or ID and also shows the discrimination pattern
GTI (Graphic Target Imaging) Exclusive Garrett technology that measures and displays a target’s true size and depth
LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) A graphical display that indicates target information, detector settings, etc…
Multiple Frequency See Pulse Induction and Multiple Frequency article
Microprocessor Computer chip that performs digital functions that make many features such as Target ID and Discrimination possible on today’s Garrett detectors
Mono Searchcoil Refers to searchcoils with one ring where both transmitter and receiver antennae are located
Motion Mode Refers to the setting where coil motion is needed to detect targets
Notch Discrimination Targets above and below these discrimination settings
Pinpoint A mode of operation that allows the operator to detemine the precise location of a target still in the ground
Pulse Induction Used primarily for heavily mineralized environments such as the beach or the gold fields of Australia and is found in many of today’s specialty detectors (See also Multiple Frequency)
PowerMaster Exclusive Garrett feature that increases the detector’s ability to detect deeper and wider – up to 20 percent
Probe A long screwdriver-like device usually made of brass used to penetrate the ground and physically locate a detected target before digging it up
Prospecting Hunting for valuable metals such as gold
Relic Hunting Hunting for targets with historical value, such as old battlefield items or family heirlooms
Salt Elimination A detector’s ability to eliminate the interference of salt mineralization, which adversely affects detection depth and target ID capabilities
ScanTrack A unique Garrett feature that automatically adjusts to the operator’s scan speed to achieve optimum performance
Searchcoil Also referred to as the “coil”, the searchcoil is the flat, typically circular disk swept over the ground to sense the presence of metal
Sensitivity Generally synonymous with Depth, the adjustment that determines how deep or small a target can be detected – the higher the sensitivity, the greater the detection depth
Shaft The adjustable stem that connects the control box and the searchcoil
Single Frequency Offers greater potential depth capabilities, better discrimination and enhanced target ID under most common soil conditions where most treasure hunting occurs (See Multiple Frequency article for more information).
Super Sluice™ Large 15″ gold pan with 1/2″deep riffles. Traps small gold nuggets up to one ounce and larger in size
Surface Elimination A detectors ability to ignore all targets located on or near the ground’s surface, which is useful in heavy trash areas
Surface Mount PC Board Technology The latest trend in constructing electronic circuit boards
Target Any metallic item sensed by a detector
Target ID Cursor A graphical indication of the target’s probable identity (e.g. coin, gold, pull tab) based on its electrical properties
Volume Control The ability to adjust the loudness of the audible response produced by the detection of a target


Garrett Infinium ls land and sea LS Metal Detector’s Key Features pulse induction PI P.I.

Key Features of Infinium LS land and sea :Audio Threshold, Adjustable: adjust to user’s preference

  • Circuit type: Advanced Pulse Induction technology for automaticcancellation of salt/ground mineralization
  • User-adjustable Discrimination with Quick Iron Check
  • User-adjustable Frequency: adjust to reduce interference
  • Automatic Ground Track with 3 settings:
    • Slow—Use over slowly changing ground mineralization.
    • Lock—Locks ground track setting; use for most ground conditionsand offers maximum depth.
    • Fast—Use over extreme or quickly changing ground mineralization.
  • Volume control: on land headphones (included)
  • Hip Mount Battery Pack: reduces detector weight for long searches
  • Salt Elimination Aid: eliminate interference of salt mineralization at beach
  • Battery Life: Alkaline (included), 10-15 hours. Battery recharger for AC andautomobile included. Rechargeable (included), 7-10 hours.

Search Modes :

  • Motion All Metal with adjustable PI discrimination

Infinium LS Metal Detector

Product No. 1152070

Specifications   :

Multiple Frequency Technology 96 frequencies
Circuit Type Advanced Pulse Induction
Discrimination Full Range (PI)
Search Modes Motion, All Metal Deepseekingwith Adjustable PI discrimination
Detection Frequency 730 pulses per second, adjustable
Submersion Depth 200 feet (65m); (underwaterheadphones required)
Standard Searchcoil 10″x14″ PROformance™ DD
Standard Land Headphones Included; weight 16 oz. (.45 kgs.)
Length (Adjustable) 28″ to 52″ (.71m – 1.32m)
Total Weight 5.5 lbs. (2.5 kgs.) stem-mounted,3.8 lbs. (1.72 kgs.) hip-mounted
Control Housing 31 oz. (.88 kgs.)
Detector Buoyancy Near neutral
Batteries 8 AA (included); rechargeables included
Warranty 2 Year, Limited Parts/Labor

Infinium LS is the best salt water PULSE INDUCTION metal detector

Call for the best price always at 1 800 301 6151

Garrett Metal Detectors


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this chart will help you decide in choosing a metal detector -metal detecting TV

this will help you to choose your future metal detector

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Coin Hunting
Jewelry Hunting
Relic Hunting
Cache Hunting
Ghost Town Hunting
Competition Events
Dry Beach/Fresh Water Hunting
Surf Hunting
Treasure Diving


Tesoro SAND SHARK Metal Detector OPERATOR INSTRUCTION MANUAL Salt water submersible diving



Your new TESORO metal detector was designed to provide you with many happy hours of enjoyment in the most rewarding hobby I can think of—treasure hunting. Ahead of you lie fascinating and exciting experiences as you step into the past, uncovering artifacts lost by past generations. I wish we could share these experiences with you, and we wish you the best of success.

Your Tesoro metal detector is capable of meeting your needs in a wide range of treasure hunting situations. As with any detector, operator skill and familiarity is probably the limiting factor in determining how successful you will be. We recommend that you read and understand this manual fully before attempting to use the instrument in the field. Then, as you practice and become familiar with your detector, your rate of success will increase dramatically.

Your TESORO metal detector is a precision electronic instrument, which will last for years if properly cared for. Treat it right and it won’t let you down.





The Sand Shark is the first Pulse Induction metal detector that is controlled by microprocessor technology. It combines new technology with Tesoro’s time-proven PI circuits and interchangeable Spiral Printed coils. While simple to operate, the Sand Shark offers a wide variety of user definable controls that allow for precise fine-tuning of the detector. Don’t be fooled by its simplicity, the Sand Shark is capable of delivering peak performance by eliminating troublesome adjustments and complicated features creating an extremely simple to operate lightweight detector. The Sand Shark is packaged in a waterproof housing making it ideal for wet weather use, beach hunting, or diving in fresh or salt water. It is convertible to body/belt mount and requires no special tools.

As a Pulse Induction instrument the Sand Shark will provide mineral free operation in virtually all ground mineral or salt water environments. Equipped with auto tuning the Sand Shark is a motion- based “all metal” detector. Though the searchcoil must be moving when pinpointing, due to the auto tuning, the amount of motion is so slight that pinpointing is easily accomplished.

Designed as an all-purpose detector, the Sand Shark requires no special ground adjustments or complicated set-up. A variety of optional searchcoils provide the operator greater versatility and a wider range of site selection. A guide to selecting the proper optional coil is included in the section for “Selecting the Right Searchcoil.”

Be sure to complete and mail the warranty registration card in order to validate your warranty.



Your Sand Shark was shipped with these parts:

1 Upper Pole Assembly

Fully assembled, including upper pole stem with handle grip, padded arm bracket, pole lock and control housing.

1 Middle Pole Assembly With Pole Lock

1 Lower Pole Assembly

Fully assembled with 2 washers and nylon nut and bolt.

1 8” round printed spiral searchcoil with 8′ cable

1 8-cell battery pack with 8 AA batteries installed

1 Tube of Dow Corning #4 silicone

2 Velcro cable straps

1 Operator Instruction Manual

1 Tesoro Warranty Card

If any of these items are missing, contact the Tesoro Authorized Dealer where you purchased your detector immediately.


    1. On the lower pole assembly, remove the mounting screw and thumb nut from the pole tip.
    2. Insert the pole tip between the mounting ears of the searchcoil and align the holes of the pole tip and washers with those of the mounting ears.
      Note: The pole tip should fit very snugly into the mounting ears.
    3. Insert the mounting screw through the holes in the mounting ears and pole tip—entering from the side opposite the cable connection.
    4. Install the thumb nut on the mounting screw and tighten by hand.
      Note: Do not overtighten the thumb nut. It should be snug but not too difficult to loosen up.
    5. On the middle pole assembly, depress the two spring buttons and slide the middle pole assembly into the upper pole assembly until the spring buttons click into the holes—locking the two assemblies into place. Tighten the pole lock to secure the two assemblies together.



  1. Slide lower pole into middle pole until spring buttons click into the first set of adjustment holes. Turn pole lock to tighten—locking the assembly into place.
  2. The Sand Shark can be assembled in several different configurations. Take a look at the pictures below to find out the best configuration for you:Control housing mounted under arm
    Control housing mounted under pole
    Divers setup (lower pole set directly into upper pole)
    Body Mount
    Converting the Sand Shark from pole mount to body/belt mount is simply a matter of removing the control box from the upper pole and unwinding the cable. To remove the control box from the pole, depress the four spring buttons that hold the mounting bracket and control box to the pole, and lift. It is easiest to release one set of spring buttons at a time.
  3. Once you have decided on a pole mount configuration, wrap the cable around the pole leaving enough slack near the searchcoil to permit searchcoil adjustment.
    Install the coil connector into its receptacle on the back of the control housing and tighten it fingertight.

Note: Do not use pliers to tighten the coil connector. Do not allow the cable to flop loosely over the searchcoil. Since the detector is sensitive enough to “see” the tiny wires in the cable, a floppy cable can cause false signals as the searchcoil senses the moving wires.



The Sand Shark has been equipped with a drop-in battery pack. To install or replace the batteries, make sure the detector housing is dry, then release the two draw bolts securing the faceplate to the housing. Gently pull the control panel free being careful not to twist or strain the ribbon cable connecting the faceplate panel to the printed circuit board. The Sand Shark takes 8 AA size alkaline batteries. Also, make certain that you follow the polarity indicators on both the battery holder as well as the batteries themselves. Then check the polarity of the pack as it goes into the housing. Look inside the housing for the two spring clips and slide the pack so that the battery terminals meet the spring clips. There is only one correct way to put the battery pack in. If the batteries are put in wrong, the detector will not work. Replace the faceplate and use the drawbolts to clamp the faceplate back onto the housing.

Do not rest the unit on the coil connector while clamping the faceplate. This can cause excess wear and damage to the connector.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Always make sure the instrument is dry before opening. Water, if allowed to make contact with the circuit board, may damage it. Always make sure the O-ring is clean and free of dirt or sand. It is recommended that you wipe the O-ring with a dry cloth and look for damage and apply a new coat of diver’s silicone grease before replacing it. Failure to maintain the O-ring will result in extensive damage and will not be covered under warranty.


The searchcoil angle and stem length should be adjusted so that the unit does not become uncomfortable or tiring to hold after long periods of use. The detector should rest in your hand with arm relaxed allowing it to swing back and forth without having to lift with the elbow or shoulder while keeping the searchcoil as close as possible to the ground without touching. The pole length is adjusted by depressing the spring buttons and extending or shortening the lower stem until they click into the set of holes that give you the most comfortable setting. The searchcoil should rest about one inch above the ground while standing erect. Adjust the angle of the searchcoil so that it is parallel to the ground. Tighten the searchcoil thumbnut by hand so that the searchcoil will maintain this setting.


The Quickstart is designed to teach you how to use your new Sand Shark. It provides a quick and easy means of learning all of the functions of your detector and the concepts behind the functions.

You will need the following items:

  1. Your fully assembled Sand Shark metal detector.
  2. Several targets for air test.
  3. A nonmetal table or counter surface.

Here’s what you will do:

  1. Set the THRESHOLD and VOLUME.
  2. Perform an Audio Battery Test.
  3. Perform an Air Test in the VCO Mode.
  4. Set the Audio Frequency for the NORMAL Mode.
  5. Perform an Air Test in the NORMAL Mode.
  6. Set the Pulse Width.
Prepare for the Quickstart

Place your assembled Sand Shark on the nonmetal surface as shown in the photo. Make sure there are no metal objects near the coil and remove any jewelry from your hands and wrists.

Start with the controls like this:

  1. PULSE WIDTH in center position.
  2. VOLUME & THRESHOLD in the 1 o’clock position.
  3. Mode Switch in OFF position.
Set the Threshold and Volume

The Mode Switch controls all of the tuning functions on your Sand Shark. As we go through the other tuning steps, we will be resetting the Mode switch to the other functions.

We will start by turning the Mode Switch from off to VCO. At this time you will hear a humming tone in the headphones. This sound is the threshold. Its purpose is to give you a reference point to judge targets by. Some targets may be small enough or deep enough that they will not be able to generate an audio tone by themselves. By monitoring a threshold, you already have a signal so changes in that signal are easier to hear. However if the threshold is set too loud, the small changes will not be noticed. Therefore, a low steady threshold setting is ideal. You can change the threshold with the Threshold adjust knob. Try turning it up and down to find the best possible setting for the machine.

Once the threshold has been set, you should adjust the volume control to a comfortable level. Please remember that the sound level will be affected by your surroundings. What may be just right in one location may be too high or low in another. The volume can be changed with the VOLUME adjust knob. Take a moment and find the level that is best for you now.

Perform an Audio Battery Test

With the threshold and volume set, we will now check the batteries. Turn the THRESHOLD adjust knob all the way counterclockwise until you feel a click. You should hear a number of beeps. If the batteries are fully charged, you will hear 6 or 7 beeps. As the batteries drain, you will hear fewer and fewer beeps. When you hear no beeps or only one, it will be time to replace your batteries. Please remember that you will have to reset your threshold when you are done with the battery test. Try your battery test and reset your threshold before moving to the next step.

Perform an Air Test in the VCO mode

You are now ready to perform an air test in the VCO Mode. VCO stands for Voltage Controlled Oscillator. The VCO mode has a very distinct sound that makes it very easy to work with. As a target gets close to the coil, the rise in signal voltage causes the oscillator to change frequency and amplitude causing the audio part of the signal to become higher in pitch and louder in volume. These changes will leave no doubt in your mind that you are close to a target. Try waving your targets in front of the coil. Start from a distance of 10 to 12 inches away from the coil and work your way towards the coil. Now try starting from 6 inches to the left or right side of the coil and working your way to the center of the coil. Notice how the audio signal changes. Your strongest signal will always be closest to the center of the coil, but additional information can also be learned by the signal strength. A deep or small target will give a smaller change in the threshold than a larger or shallower target will give. Take some time to try a number of different targets at different depths to find out how your detector sounds.

Set the Audio Frequency for the Normal Mode

In the NORMAL tuning mode you will be able to preset the frequency of the audio tone that you will hear in the headphones. The adjustment is made by going into the “F” SET Mode on the Mode switch. Notice that the “F” SET is highlighted in this mode and that “F” ADJUST written in the same highlighting is found beneath the THRESHOLD adjust knob. When the mode switch is in “F” SET, the THRESHOLD adjust knob now sets the audio tone. Try turning the “F” ADJUST knob up and down to find the audio frequency that you like best. While you are in the “F” SET mode, your Sand Shark will not respond to targets. When you are ready, turn the Mode switch to NORMAL. Please remember that once the frequency is set, you must reset your threshold to a low steady hum.

Perform an Air Test in the Normal Mode

You are now operating in the NORMAL Mode. In this mode only, one frequency at a time will be heard and the volume of the audio signal will determine signal strength. Try waving your targets in front of the coil. Start from a distance of 10 to 12 inches away from the coil and work your way towards the coil. Now try starting from 6 inches to the left or right side of the coil and working your way to the center of the coil. Notice the difference from what you heard in the air test in the VCO Mode. Your strongest signal is still closest to the center of the coil, but there was no change in audio frequency. Take some time to try a number of different targets at different depths to find out how your detector sounds.

Set the Pulse Width

The PULSE WIDTH setting controls the amount of signal that the Sand Shark will transmit into the ground. A pulse induction detector works by transmitting a signal and then reading the residual eddy currents that are left on metal items. All of this takes place at approximately 600 pulses per second. Increasing the pulse width allows the detector to transmit longer and create more eddy currents on a metal target. These extra currents are more easily picked up during the receive phase and will therefore increase depth and sensitivity. However, more transmitted signal means more power used in the transmit phase, limiting the battery life. We have marked the best balance of battery life and depth and sensitivity on the faceplate at the mid-position on the PULSE WIDTH adjust knob. You will be able to increase or decease the PULSE WIDTH by turning the Pulse width adjust knob. Start with the detector in the factory recommended position and wave a few targets in front of the coil. Try turning the knob and see what effects it has on depth and sensitivity.



You have completed the Sand Shark Quickstart Test and Tuning Procedures and in the process have learned quite a lot about your new Sand Shark. But experience is the best teacher. I would recommend that you get out and practice with your detector as much as possible. For your convenience, you may want to create a test garden in your lawn or work a local park. Any time spent using your detector will give you valuable experience.



Selecting the right searchcoil for the type of detecting you’re doing will add greatly to your success. The Sand Shark comes with a standard 8 inch Printed Spiral coil, which is a new and revolutionary design developed by Tesoro specifically for the Sand Shark. This is an excellent overall coil since most people who operate PI instruments are usually searching large sandy beach areas where targets are easy to dig and there is usually not an over abundance of trash. This coil will detect very tiny targets for its size and provides excellent target separation while giving more ground coverage. However, it is not always the right coil for the job. Therefore, Tesoro has made it possible to interchange coils and has developed a variety of its unique Printed Spiral searchcoil in a selection of sizes.

In addition to the standard 8 inch open center searchcoil, three optional coil sizes are available for the Sand Shark. The 10 1/2 inch open center coil is designed for areas where digging is easier and where junk targets may not be too numerous. The 7 inch coil will be particularly useful when searching for smaller targets, such as gold nuggets. The 10 inch elliptical allows a widescan sweep pattern while keeping a good sensitivity to small targets.



Move the searchcoil slowly across the target from side to side and then from front to back at 90 degree angles. Raise the coil slightly, slow the sweep speed, and shorten the sweep to narrow the detection area enough to make it easy to tell where the coil center is at the instant of sound as you crisscross the target.



Congratulations, you have just purchased a new metal detector, and we wish to thank you for choosing Tesoro.

So many people are disappointed when their new “state-of-the-art” detector becomes less and less exciting to use and doesn’t seem to go as deep anymore. There is something that you can do to keep your new detector working as good as when it was new.

The most important thing is simply to remember that your detector is an electronic instrument and to treat it as such. You wouldn’t expect your TV set to operate properly if you stored it in the trunk of your car, would you?

We have generated the following list to help you take care of your detector and to help ensure that you do not void its warranty. If you will follow its guidelines, you will find your detector will not let you down.

  1. Operate your detector exactly as recommended in this Operator Instruction Manual.
  2. Do not attempt to modify or repair the detector’s electronics.
  3. Cable is hard-wired into searchcoil. Do not attempt removal of the spring retainer on the searchcoil housing.
  4. Use only high quality carbon-zinc, alkaline, or nicad batteries. Remove batteries during long term storage. Never substitute batteries of other voltages. Brands should not be mixed. Do not attempt to modify the power supply system.
  5. Never spray lubricants such as WD-40 or any types of cleaners, sealants or other chemical preparation on or into the detector.
  6. Avoid banging the searchcoil against rocks or foundation walls.
  7. Always protect the searchcoil with a properly designed scuff cover.
  8. Remove and clean out scuff covers periodically to avoid buildup of mineralized or metallic particles.
  9. After use, clean the detector with a soft cloth to remove any dust, moisture, or other contaminants.
  10. Do not transport or store your detector in the trunk of your car.
  11. Keep cables properly wound to stem and protected. Floppy or pinched cables may short causing erratic noises or unnecessary replacement of searchcoils.
  12. Protect the detector from dust, moisture, and extreme temperatures during storage. Avoid storing it in places such as attics, basements or garages. When shipping the detector, use the original factory carton or a similar heavy-duty container. A one inch minimum clearance of padding around the detector must be provided when shipping.
  13. Treat your detector as you would any sensitive electronic instrument. Although ruggedly constructed and designed to withstand the demands of normal treasure hunting applications, it is not intended to be improperly operated or abused.


Operating Frequency 600 pps
Searchcoil Type Printed Spiral
Searchcoil Size 8 inch Diameter
Audio Frequency Approx. 220-450 Hz
Audio Output Stereo Piezo Headphones
Weight (may vary slightly) Less than 4½ lbs.
Battery Requirement (8) AA DC (alkaline)
Battery Life (typical) 10 to 20 hours
Optimum Temperature Range 30° to 100° F
Optimum Humidity 0 to 75% R.H.
Operating Modes VCO Motion All Metal
Adjustable Audio Frequency All Metal
Maximum Depth Rating 200 ft.



Your Tesoro metal detector is covered by a Limited Lifetime Warranty, the terms of which are listed below. If your metal detector should require service, you may return it to the Tesoro factory at the address below.


This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may have other rights which vary from state to state.

This instrument is warranted to be free of defects in material and workmanship as long as it is owned by the original consumer purchaser. This warranty is not transferable and is valid only if the warranty registration card has been completed and mailed within 10 days of purchase.

TESORO will, at its option, repair or replace any instrument covered by this warranty, without charge, except for transportation charges, at its factory in Prescott, Arizona.

This warranty excludes batteries, damage caused by leaky batteries, cable breakage due to flexing on body mount units, and wear of the searchcoil housing. Also excluded are instruments which have been abused, altered, or repaired by an unauthorized party.

Under the copyright laws this documentation may not be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronic or machine-readable form, in whole or in part, without the prior written consent of Tesoro Electronics Incorporated, except in the manner described in this documentation.
© 2001 Tesoro Electronics Incorporated. All rights reserved. Printed in the United States.

General metal detecting questions for the users of metal detectors


General Detecting Questions


Can one detector really do it all?

Most detectors are designed to excel at one type of hunting or another but can be used for other types of hunting as well. For example, most gold prospecting machines use some form of higher gain in the circuitry to get better sensitivity to small gold nuggets in the ground. While this is a good thing for prospectors, coin hunters may find it annoying that their detectors are picking up every bit of a pulltab that has been run over with a lawnmower.

The art of metal detector design is the art of compromise. By accenting certain characteristics of any detector, you take away from other features. Any detector that does it all may not work as well for certain very specific treasure hunting. Talk to as many people as is possible and be realistic about your hunting needs. Finding a detector with the features that will best suit your hunting style is the most important choice you can make when deciding on a new detector.What is the best metal detector?

This is probably the #1 question that I get asked. Unfortunately, there is no one single answer. Each metal detectorist has specific needs that cannot be answered by one single detector. The easiest way to find the “best” detector is to evaluate your detecting style, your experience level, and the time that you will spend hunting. After taking all of these things into consideration, then you will be able to find a detector that fits your needs and your budget.

Are detectors with a lot of knobs better than those with just a few?

How much better is a $1000 detector than a $200 detector and in what ways?The answers to these questions are connected, so I will try to answer them together. Generally speaking, the higher the price of a detector, the more features that it will have. More features translate into more knobs. The more features and/or knobs that a detector has, the more you are able to tune the detector to the type of hunting conditions that you are likely to encounter With that being said, the downside to a large number of features is that even though you are able to fine tune the detector to match the local conditions, there are also more ways of setting up the detector incorrectly. Setting up a machine “wrong” may result in a decrease in depth and sensitivity and your $1000 machine may be outdone by a $200 one

Will metered detectors find coins deeper than non-metered ?

The use of a meter on a detector is no longer any indication of its depth capabilities. When metered machines were the top-of-the-line machines, engineers matched the detectors with the best possible circuitry. With the advent of more cost effective digital signal processing and LCD displays, there are a number of units available that are inexpensive and have meters. While these detectors have acceptable depth, there are plenty of other machines that have better.The main thing to remember is that a metered machine will give an accurate audio signal on a target much deeper than an accurate meter reading. Air tests are a good indication of the ability of any display-type detector, but once the target is in the ground, there are several variables that may come into play affecting the reading. The most common is the fact that pulltabs and gold rings fall into the same area based on the mixing of alloys. The orientation in the ground can also cause some confusion for the detector. If you choose to get a metered machine, dig any target that gives a good audio signal regardless of the meter reading. You may dig up more trash, but in the long run, you will find more desirable targets

Is a crystal-controlled detector better than one that is not crystal-controlled?

Most manufacturers use crystal resonators in their machines because of the tight tolerances of the resonator. If the part is listed as 15.7 kHz, all parts will be exactly that frequency. The downside of these super tight tolerances is that the detectors are more likely to crosstalk with each other. In other words, the transmit and receive signals from two or more different machines will start interfering with each other.Tesoro detectors use an LC or tank circuit to generate operating frequency. A capacitor and an inductor are paired together and create a naturally occurring efficient frequency. Variation in the capacitor and inductor cause slight variations in the operating frequency, which reduces the likelihood of crosstalk with other Tesoro machines. The variation is small enough that it does not affect the performance of the detector.

Are multi-frequency detectors better than single frequency types?

The tank circuit described above generates a sinusoidal or SINE wave form. The SINE wave is efficient to generate and has no harmonics.Two frequency machines may combine a pair of SINE waves but are more likely to use a square wave. Multi-frequency machines almost always use a square wave or modified square wave. Square waves are rich in harmonics and take more battery power to generate. Harmonics generated by a square wave can be counted as individual frequencies and can be used to give more information as to target type and depth.COILS

Why are there so many types of searchcoils?There are two main types of searchcoils currently on the market—the concentric and the widescan. The concentric coil uses two round antennas, one inside the other. This coil is used on most detectors that are designed for coin, jewelry, and relic hunting. Concentric coils discriminate very well and pinpoint very easily due to the fact that the strongest signal is always in the center of the coil. Widescan coils use two D-shaped antennas that are placed back to back. Because of this configuration, they are also called “double-d” coils. The widescan coil is less affected by mineralization than the concentric, so it is generally used for gold prospecting or relic hunting in bad ground. Pinpointing is done with the heel or toe of the coil. After determining the type of coil that is best for your type of hunting, the next thing to consider is the size.There are many different sizes of coils available and each one may fine tune your hunting but only if you get the correct size. Larger coils go deeper than smaller coils but only on larger targets. When using a large coil, you may lose sensitivity to small targets. A large coil is also more susceptible to masking. Masking happens in the Discriminate mode when a good target and junk target are both under the coil at the same time. If the targets are close enough together, the bad target will be discriminated out, and at the same time, the detector will not be able to pick up the good target. Masking is very common in junky playgrounds and in-and-around old house sites.Smaller coils will concentrate the signal and make the detector more sensitive to the little targets. Unfortunately, smaller coils tend to lose depth when compared to their larger cousins. Being that these coils don’t have as wide a search pattern, they are also less likely to mask targets in trashy hunting situations.Knowing where you are going to hunt and what you are hunting for will go a long way in helping you choose the right coil for your needs. A larger coil is needed when hunting in a clean area or when hunting for relics that may tend to be deeper. A small coil will help find the smaller targets such as gold nuggets or fine jewelry or can be used when coin & jewelry hunting extremely trashy sites.

What is the difference between a wading coil and a regular coil? When hunting in water, most coils tend to float. As customers want lighter and lighter coils, most manufacturers will fill coils with some type of foam or other lightweight hollow material. This naturally creates air pockets inside the coils and tends to make them float.A wading coil is filled with one or more materials that have neutral buoyancy when placed in water. This keeps the coils from either floating or sinking and makes water hunting easier for the detectorist.

Are aftermarket “Hot” coils that are advertised any good and why don’t the manufacturers make them?If you look closely at the advertisements of most so-called hot coils, you will find that they are slightly larger than the stock coils that they are replacing. As noted above, a larger coil may go deeper, but it has other drawbacks that may make it unsuitable for your particular style of hunting. Most manufacturers already make coils that are larger than the stock coils. These coils are specifically designed by the company engineer to match the circuitry of the particular unit that you are using. Why would you want to buy a coil that is not designed or built by the manufacturer?


How deep do detectors go?

The answer to this question comes in two parts. The first part has to do with the detector circuitry and coil design. Environmental factors make up the second part of the answer.Coil and circuitry design determine the overall ability of a detector to find targets. During the design phase of any detector, the engineers decide which features to include. The things that they consider are the type of hunting and who will be using it. A beginner’s model may not have the bells and whistles of the more professional models, but it will be easier to use. The more specific a detector’s design, the narrower set of features it will have. Some detectors designed for the ultimate depth will be hard for a beginner to use or may be too sensitive to use in trashy areas. Coil size will affect the depth of the detector but may not be suited for a particular type of hunting.Environmental factors include just about everything except the detector and coil. Just a few of the things to take into consideration are the following: size and shape of the target, soil conditions, orientation of the target in the ground, content of the target, and any outside interference, such as electrical wires and radio or cell phone traffic. Weather conditions, such as rain-soaked ground or even an incoming thunderstorm, may also play a part in the depth and sensitivity of any detector.With all that being said, an average detector using a stock coil in moderate ground should see the following targets with these ranges:

Target size Depth
Dime to nickel: 4 to 8 inches
Quarter to half dollar: 6 to 12 inches
Dollar to fruit jar lid: 8 to 16 inches

Knowing your detector and using it properly are the two most important things that you can do to get the best depth and sensitivity out of any machine.

How do you set up and use a metal detector?

Whenever you are using a detector, comfort should be your primary goal. A detector that is easy and comfortable to use allows you to be in the field longer and to find more targets.The shaft of the detector should be adjusted so that the searchcoil is just off the ground when your arm is in a natural and relaxed position. Your hand should be lightly on the grip and your elbow straight but not locked. This initial setup allows you to swing the detector with an easy shoulder movement. The coil should move in an approximate three foot arc in front of you. This is called the sweep. While sweeping your coil, try to avoid swinging from the elbow.

How do I know where to dig?

Once your detector beeps, you have to pinpoint your target. Pinpointing your target is a skill that is very important to practice and learn. The faster that you can locate your target, the more time you can spend searching for treasure. The technique for pinpointing varies depending on the type of coil that you are using. But the basics are the same.“Xing” the target with your coil is the most common type of pinpointing. To “X” a target, run your coil over the target and make a mental note of where the audio signal is the loudest. Start with your normal right to left sweep to find the loudest audio signal. You should shorten your normal sweep down to about two to four inches. Once you have a good idea of where the target is, run the coil 90 degrees over the target to tighten up the pinpointing. You can do this one of two ways. First, you can physically step to the left or right of the target so that the coil goes over the object using a normal sweep but turned 90 degrees. Second, instead of stepping to the side and sweeping the coil left to right, you can push and pull the coil forward and backward over the target. Try using both methods to find the one that works best for you.Pinpointing with a concentric coil: Most coin and relic machines use a concentric coil. These types of coils pinpoint in the physical center of the coil housing. Most concentric coils will have a hole in the center of the coil so it is easier to make the mental note of the location of the target.Pinpointing with a widescan or double-D coil: The widescan coil is slightly different from the concentric coil. By design, there is no center spot on the coil but a center strip of pinpointing area. The best pinpointing method is to use the very front of the coil or toe or the very rear portion or heel of the coil. Once you have gotten the signal, back the coil away from the target and use the toe of the coil to find the best signal. Pinpoint in the usual manner after that. To use the heel of the coil, push the coil past the target and use the end of the coil closest to you for the pinpointing.Regardless of the type of coil or the pinpointing method that you feel most comfortable with, practice will make you a better pinpointer and save you time and effort in the field. How much discrimination should I use?In the late sixties and early seventies, as metal detectors became more popular, most of them on the market were all metal machines and could not discriminate any junk targets. As detectors became more sophisticated, the ability for discrimination got better and better. Now coin hunters can knock out the junk targets and keep the good ones in, or so they thought.Metal detectors judge targets based on their conductivity. Iron and silver targets are easy to separate because they are on opposite ends of the conductivity scales. However, the real struggle comes in the area of nickels, pulltabs, and gold rings. All of these targets are in the same area on the conductivity scale and can change due to the size, shape, and alloy of the target.For most coin and relic hunting situations, I recommend a setting just high enough to knock out the iron and foil. This allows you to get all of the other valuable targets without fear of having them discriminated out.

How do I set my Sensitivity control to get maximum depth?

The Sensitivity control on most detectors is used to set the trigger point of any signal. The higher the Sensitivity setting, the smaller amount of signal a target needs to produce to have the detector give an audio signal. A very small or very deep target will not produce the amount of signal that a large or shallow target will. By increasing the sensitivity, the machine will give an audio signal to the smaller and deeper targets, but the detector may become too sensitive and start picking up ground effect or outside interference such as electrical lines or radio frequency noise.The easiest way to set your Sensitivity is to turn it up until the machine starts to chatter. When the machine chatters, turn the Sensitivity control back until the chatter just goes away. This will give you the maximum sensitivity without any excess noise. If you can turn your Sensitivity control wide open without chatter, leave it there. Your machine will be operating at its maximum power capabilities.

What is ground balancing?

Ground balance is a form of discrimination that cancels out the effect of mineralization. Ground balancing is the physical act of finding the balance point where the effects of the ground are neither too positive nor too negative. When a detector is set with a positive ground balance, it will react to the mineralization matrix just like a target. When this happens, you will get an audio signal and targets in the ground will be masked by the mineralization. If a detector has been set up with a negative ground balance, the detector is discriminating out the ground and will go silent. A severe loss of depth and sensitivity are the results.Finding the balance point between these two extremes is very important for the best operation of any machine. Most factory preset detectors are set just slightly positive. This will allow the user to work different types of soil conditions. A slight positive setting will also keep the detector from reading small ripples in the dirt and the hole you are digging to retrieve a target.

What is the difference between Preset, Manual, and Automatic Ground Balance?

All VLF-style metal detectors   have some form of ground balance or mineral rejection. This keeps the detector working as close to its peak as possible and not be affected by mineral masking. When reading literature on all of the detectors, it can be confusing as to what the detector is actually doing.Factory preset is the most common type of ground balance. It is used on most machines that are called “turn-on-and-go.” The ground balance is set internally by a technician at the factory. It will work fine for most coin, jewelry, and relic hunting needs almost anywhere in the world. Factory preset does not require the user to do anything to set the ground balance.Manual ground balance is used on detectors designed to work in highly mineralized conditions. The ground balance is set by the user and is tuned to the local ground conditions. In bad ground, a manual ground balance can give you better depth and sensitivity than a factory preset. Unfortunately, if the ground balance is set incorrectly, a loss of depth and sensitivity will result. When working with a manual ground balance, constant attention is a must. If the ground conditions change, the detector must be retuned to the ground matrix to ensure the best operation of the machine. Manual ground balancing is a learned skill and must be practiced for best results.

While manual and preset ground balance are pretty clear, automatic ground balance causes some confusion. In the earlier days of metal detecting, any machine that was not a manual ground balance was referred to as an automatic ground balance. The term was used because the detectorist did not have to tune the machine; it was “automatic.” In the late 80s, several detectors were introduced that had microprocessor controlled ground balance. That is to say that the detector sensed the ground condition and reacted to change by adjusting an internal electronic potentiometer. True automatic ground balancing had arrived. Some manufacturers and dealers still use the automatic title for factory preset machines. If you have a question about whether or not any detector is truly an automatic ground balance or not, check the machine with a mineral sample. If the machine actively tunes to the sample, it is an automatic.

What is the best type of ground balance?

This is another question that involves an honest evaluation of your detecting needs. Most detectorists who hunt a few hours here and there for fun or those who are novices would probably benefit from a preset type of machine. There are fewer knobs to worry about and the setup time is very short. This means more time swinging the coil and more chances of finding targets.The more advanced detectorist or one who is hunting in very mineralized soil (gold prospecting or relic hunting) should get some form of adjustable ground balance. Manual ground balance is good for the avid hunter who wants to be able to tune the detector to his exact specifications. Depending on ground conditions and personal hunting habits, a slightly positive or negative ground balance can help the detectorist find targets. An automatic ground balance will always tune to its programmed parameters and can’t be fine tuned to the user’s specifications.Matching your detecting style and hunting habits to the type of ground balance of the detector will result in better finds.

How do I set up a manually adjusted ground balance detector?

Most manually adjusted machines are easy to set up, once you have practiced the skill necessary. Start with the machine in the All Metal mode with the Threshold hum set low and steady. Lift the coil straight off the ground and allow the threshold to retune. Do not swing the coil in an arc off the ground. Moving the coil in an arc causes the machine to read the ground in an uneven manner and will complicate the ground balance procedure. Once the threshold has retuned, push the coil down to about one inch above the ground. One of three things will happen. The threshold noise will get louder; it will get quieter; it will stay the same. When the threshold sound stays the same, the detector is telling you that it is no longer being affected by the mineralization in the ground and you are ready to hunt. If the sound gets louder, you will need to turn the ground balance knob counterclockwise. If the sound gets quieter, turn the ground balance knob clockwise. Repeat the above steps until you find the spot where the detector no longer reacts to the ground and the threshold hum stays the same on the way down.

If you have a manually adjusted machine, it is very important to make sure that you are very comfortable setting the ground balance. You can practice this in your backyard or anywhere you can find a small area with no metal targets in the ground. Spinning the knob one way and setting the balance, then spinning it the other and resetting the balance is a good way to practice this skill. If you practice this just five minutes a day, you will get very good at ground balancing.

What is Super Tune?

Super Tuning is a technique to get better depth and sensitivity out of any machine that has an adjustable Threshold control.The Threshold control is normally used to set the level of hum in the All Metal mode. A light steady hum is usually desired so that any small or deep target will cause a change in the audio sound. To Super Tune a detector, put it in the Discriminate mode and turn the Threshold knob all the way to the clockwise position. At this point, the All Metal mode will no longer operate correctly, but you will see an increase in depth and sensitivity while hunting in the Discriminate mode.

What is High Output Technology?

Most metal detectors work by sending out a signal, receiving it back, amplifying the return signal, and deciding whether or not to beep. One way of making the detector more sensitive is to increase the amplification of the return signal. This works well up to a point but can cause a machine to overload the circuits and become chirpy. Another way is to increase the initial signal going out, but once again, too much power and the signal will become unstable.High Output Technology combines the increased transmitted signal and the high gain amplification of the return signal to get the best depth and sensitivity out of our lightweight, compact detectors. When a detector becomes chirpy, the most common reason is the noise to signal ratio. Signal refers to the information being passed through the circuitry and noise is any type of other interference. As the signal is amplified, the noise gets amplified as well. At Tesoro, we use high tolerance components and design them into the circuit to create a lower noise to signal ratio.

What is Target ID and how does it work?

Target ID is a feature that will give the metal detectorist more information about the target while it is still in the ground. It cannot tell you exactly what the target is due to the many variables present in an unknown target. A short list of these variables are as follows: the metal content of the target, the size and shape of the target, the target’s orientation in the ground, the mineralization matrix of the ground itself, depth of the target, detector settings, and outside interference such as weather conditions, cell phone traffic, and electrical lines. All of these things can cause changes in the meter readings.A basic detector works by transmitting a signal and receiving it back. This creates a field of electromagnetic flux lines around the coil. As metal passes through the field, it breaks or distorts the flux lines. A simple discrimination circuit measures the amount of distortion or shift and beeps or doesn’t beep based on the settings of the machine. During the design phase of any metered-style machine, the engineer measures the amount of shift that the most common targets cause and programs a microprocessor to respond with a meter reading for those types of shifts. The testing can include simple air tests, field tests in a controlled environment, such as a test garden, or even complex reports from several different field testers. But at some point, someone decides that a type of target shift represents a specific meter reading. While this information can give a detectorist a basis to dig or reject a target, it is in no way perfect.

Is there a way that I can get more target information from a non-metered machine?

There is an easy way to find out more information about any target while it is still in the ground. When you get a target, shorten your sweep to about two to four inches over the target. As you move the coil over the target, slowly turn up the Discriminate knob. Check to see where the target goes away. Most detectors now have icons on the discriminate control representing the targets knocked out. This gives you the ability to make better decisions about digging any given target.The best way to start practicing this method is to do several air tests and see how your detector responds. When you have a good feel for what your detector is telling you, try it in the field. For the first couple of months, check the target with your Discriminate and see if you can identify the target. Dig every target and verify how correct you are. After a while, you will become very good at identifying targets while they are still in the ground. You will dig less junk and be a more successful treasure hunter.If you choose to use this method, always remember to turn your Discrim-inate knob back to the low setting before continuing to hunt.

What is Notch Filter Discriminate and how does it work?

Notch discriminate differs quite a bit from regular discrimination. When using standard discrimination, the higher the knob is turned up, the more items that are discriminated out. As discussed before, when pulltabs are totally discriminated out, so are gold jewelry, rings, and nickels. Notch filter discriminate is designed to knock out some pulltabs and to keep the good targets in. It is virtually impossible to knock out all pulltabs and keep all gold jewelry. The reason is due to the conductivity of the targets in this range.

A notch discriminate works by filtering or discriminating a band of target signals out without affecting targets higher or lower than the band. This can be done either with an analog or digital circuit.When using a notch filter, check the setup by doing numerous air tests before taking it out to the field. It is to your advantage to make sure you are aware of how your detector reacts to both good and junk targets. If your Notch can be adjusted, tune it to knock out the most common types of pulltabs in your area while keeping in the targets you wish to find. The initial setup can be a bit time consuming, but once it is done, you will be able to find less junk targets and keep the good finds.

Can iron be rejected and gold nuggets still be found?

Generally speaking, the best way to hunt for gold nuggets is to hunt in the All Metal mode. Nuggets, depending on their size, shape, purity, and orientation in the ground, will all create different signals. If you hunt in the Discriminate mode, some nuggets may be lost. The best way to get rid of iron is to search in the All Metal mode and then check the targets in the Discriminate mode. This allows you to search and find all of the possible gold nuggets. Checking the targets with the Discriminate mode turned up just high enough to knock out the small iron will give you much more information before you decide to dig. Practice this by doing air tests to see the best setting for your particular detector.

My detector still finds large iron targets, even with the Discriminate set high. Is this normal?

Most detectors can be fooled by some iron targets. There are two different ways that the machine can be fooled.Circular iron can fool a detector because of its shape. Any iron, such as a ring or washer or even bent nails, are hard for the machine to identify accurately. As the iron starts under the coil, it gives the same type of signal as a coin. When the target is directly under the coil, it reads as iron, then reads as a coin as the coil sweeps over it. In most cases, the detector may give a signal, but it will be a broken or chirpy signal. With a little practice, the broken signals will start to stand out from good repeatable signals.

Large rusty iron can also give off signals no matter where the discrimination is set. When iron or any ferrous target is in the ground long enough, it starts to rust and break down. This causes a large halo of super mineralized dirt around the target. The halo is different enough from the surrounding ground matrix that the detector picks up a signal. The strength of the signal is so large that it momentarily overdrives the detector and it beeps. Signals of this nature usually seem bigger than the size of the coil.

The best thing to do when getting either a broken signal or a very large signal is to dig the target. Most of the time, it will probably be junk, but every now and then, you will be happily surprised by a very unique target.

Why do some pennies read differently than others?

The big difference is in the makeup of the actual penny itself. Older pennies, ones made before 1982, including the wheatback-style, are almost pure copper and will read up in the range of dimes and some other silver coins. The newer pennies are made mostly of zinc and tend to read in the screwcap range.

What is the best frequency for my type of hunting?

Contrary to popular belief, there is no one best frequency for any specific metal or metals. Any VLF-style detector that is operating between 3 and 30 kHz will do a fine job for any type of hunting that is done. This frequency range gives good depth, target separation, and is not overly affected by ground mineralization.

The ability to pick up good targets and separate trash from goodies is more due to the design of the detector, type of coils used, and several other engineering points that are brought up during the R&D phase. Comparing feature points of the detector model to the type of hunting you are planning to use it for will help you more than just comparing frequencies.

What is “crosstalk” and how can I avoid it?Crosstalk is the interference that is caused by two detectors operating on the same frequency being in close proximity to each other. Depending on the gain and signal strength of the detectors, crosstalk can happen anywhere from 3 to 15 feet of the two detectors.

Crosstalk is most annoying when at a seeded treasure hunt. When you have a field with 50 to 100 or more hunters in it, you are bound to get at least one detector that is close enough to your frequency to cause crosstalk. Most manufacturers offer some sort of frequency shifter for coin hunt situations.Frequency shifters change the transmit and receive signals just slightly enough to keep another detector from interfering with yours.

How much does the moisture in the ground have to do with detection depth?Moisture in the ground by itself has very little affect on the operation of a metal detector. Fresh water, such as rain or irrigation, is not much more conductive than the dirt it soaks into. Most metallic items in moist soil will start to corrode. As these items start to break down, they create a halo of super mineralized soil around the target. The halo effect makes the target appear bigger to the metal detector. Iron and other ferrous targets will corrode faster than other targets. Gold does not corrode, and silver, copper, and brass corrode more slowly than iron. So, while the halo effect will work on some targets, it will not work on all.Saltwater is a little different than freshwater. Due to its nature, saltwater is more conductive than fresh. This may give a little extra punch down into the ground but will also cause most machines to chirp and chatter quite a bit more. It is especially bad at the surfline on a wet saltwater beach. You can effectively tune out most saltwater effects when the saltwater is consistent (when the coil is covered by a foot or so of water, for example). Along the surfline, the waves are still washing up on the shore and the sand is drying out. This causes pockets of sand that may be higher or lower in conductivity than the surrounding area and can play havoc on your detector. It is best to hunt in the Discrimination mode with the Discrim-ination knob turned up high enough to knock out iron and foil. This will cancel out a good portion of the saltwater effects. You may also have to turn down your sensitivity to stabilize the detector.


What are the best headphones to use?

Every detectorist has a slightly different style and likes a different type of headphone. For each style of hunter and hunting, there are several headphones.The most obvious difference is the earpiece. A lot of detectorists like the full-cup style. These phones fit completely over your ear and block out most of the background noise. They work well for when you are trying to hear the faintest of signals. The downside is that if it blocks out the surroundings, you may not hear snakes or other predators around you.

On the other end of the scale are walkman or earbud-style headphones. They will concentrate the signal in your ear but will allow you to hear the surroundings around you as well. Earbuds are also much cooler to wear during the hot summer months.

Along with the types of cups are the ohm ratings and frequency ratings to consider. Headphones that are designed for listening to digital music have very high ohm and frequency ratings. They will allow you to hear greater nuances in the detector signals but are very expensive. Lower-priced headphones may not have the range of their higher-priced brothers, but considering that you are only listening for a beep, they work very well. If you are out in the field and accidentally break your phones, the inexpensive ones are much easier on the pocketbook.There are a number of headphones that have active electronics inside them as well. Most of these types of phones have some form of compression/limiter circuit in them. They work by amplifying weak signals and limiting the strong ones. They will work well for chasing some of those elusive small, deep targets but may make shallow and deep target signals sound the same.

With all of the headphone choices out there, try as many as you can, think about the type of hunting that you do, and where you will be doing it. When you consider all of these factors, you will find the headphones that work best for you and your detecting style.

How much will using headphones increase the battery life?Headphones take much less current to drive than the speaker in the detector. This fact by itself would tend to show that you will increase your battery life by using headphones. But you have to remember that even though the detector is not making any noises, the electronic circuits are still running. A detector that generates a square wave or has a display will be using more power than a detector that is using a sinusoidal wave and has no display. The increase in battery life will depend on your detector and hunting style.


Are rechargeable batteries better than alkalines?There are two aspects of rechargeable batteries to consider. The first is cost. Rechargeables are quite a bit more expensive than regular batteries, but the cost is offset so that you will not have to buy them as often.The second consideration for rechargeable batteries is the voltage. Most rechargeables have slightly lower voltage than their counterparts. Alkaline batteries have a voltage of 1.5 volts per AA cell. Most rechargeable batteries have a voltage of around 1.2 volts per AA cell. If your detector uses 8 AAs, you will have 12 volts with the alkalines and roughly 9.6 volts with the rechargeables. This should not affect your depth and sensitivity, it but will affect the time that you are able to hunt.


Are there any good places left to hunt?

Most places that come easily to mind have probably been hunted to death. If you thought of that site, chances are someone else has thought about it as well.Doing research is the best way to find new places to hunt. Every city has some form of museum or historical society. This is a great place to start.Joining a local treasure-hunting club can help as well. Check with your local dealer to see if there is a club near you. You may also want to contact a national club such as the “Federation of Metal Detector and Archaeological Clubs,” “American Metal Detecting Association,” or the “Gold Prospectors Association of America.” A national organization will have several local groups that will allow you to contact hunters that share the same interests as you do.


easily troubleshoot your metal detector yes with ease




Troubleshooting your detectorThere are some common issues that many hobbyists experience that are universal to all makes and models of metal detectors. Here are a few proven remedies to some of these common symptoms.

No power

1. Ensure batteries are installed in the correct position.
2. Replace all old batteries with all new batteries.

Erratic sounds or Target ID
cursor movement

1. Ensure your searchcoil is securely connected and the coil is tightly wound around the stem
2. Ensure you are not using the detector indoors or where excessive amounts of metal are found
3. Reduce your sensitivity setting
4. Determine if you are close to other metal detectors or other metal structures such as electrical power lines, wire fences, benches, etc.

(NOTE: Iron targets may cause erratic sounds or Target ID Cursor movement. You can identify iron targets in an All-Metal Mode)

Intermittent Signals: Intermittent signals typically mean you’ve probably found a deeply buried target or one that is positioned at a difficult angle for your detector to read. Increase the sensitivity on your detector and scan from different directions until the signal becomes more definite. In the case of multiple targets switch to the All-Metal Mode or press PINPOINT to precisely locate all targets.(NOTE: Iron targets may cause Intermittent Signals. You can identify iron targets in an All-Metal Mode).

I’m not finding specific targets: Ensure you are using the correct mode for the type of hunting you are doing. If you are hunting for coins, ensure you are in the COINS mode. You may also use the All-Metal mode, which detects all metal targets to ensure desired targets are present.
Target ID Cursor bounces: If your Target ID Cursor bounces erratically, chances are you’ve found a trash target. However, a Target ID Cursor may bounce if a good target (such as a coin) is not parallel to the searchcoil (e.g. on edge). It may also bounce if there is one or multiple “junk” targets laying next to the good target. Scan from different directions until your Target ID Cursor becomes more stable.